An exceptional pair of solid eighteen carat gold cufflinks with applied Shakudo Japanese figures. This is a special, and unique pair of early, high carat superb quality cufflinks made during the golden years of Tiffany, when Louis Comfort Tiffany himself was in the workshop. The cufflinks consist of a soft rectangle front, classic curb link chain and, easy to pass through the cuff, dumbbell back. This style of cufflink was popular from the late Victorian period all the way through to the Art Nouveau era.
The front of each of the panels feature applied Japanese figures. One, a Samurai. The other a female figure, perhaps his okusan or even an Onn-musha. Each figure is superbly detailed, and picked out using many different alloy mixes of gold that help to produce a plethora of stunning metal tones throughout each figure. You can clearly see the samurai's daisho and the kanzashi in the hair of the lady along with the stunning clothing.
The figures themselves are believed to be Shakudo. Shakudō was historically used to construct or decorate Japanese sword ("nihonto") fittings such as tsuba, menuki, and kozuka, as well as other small ornaments, sliding door catches, and small boxes. Being that the style and technique of making these figures appears to be a real departure from what was being made from Tiffany at the time, it is very possible that these figures were part of a sword or box decoration at some point that were presented to the Tiffany studio as a private commission.
There was a lot of Asian influence in Western design and jewellery during this period as many wealthy Americans and Europeans embarked on lavish 'world tours'. Upon returning home there was a call to have momentos from these life changing experiences, and this then also had an effect on the designers of the great houses at the time. Metals, gemstones, patterns and designs began to be adopted by names such as Cartier, Gorham and Lacloche, to name but a few.
The cufflinks are fully signed on the back of each panel Tiffany & Co. along with markings for solid eighteen carat gold. They are presented in what possibly could be their original box, as Tiffany used a similar colour palette for their boxes during this time. Although, the back of the silk is not marked. However, they are accompanied by this beautiful period correct box which showcases them perfectly. They are believed to have been made circa 1890-1900 and are in excellent original condition. These are a perfect addition to a cufflink collection, anyone with interest in Japanese history and culture, or an individual looking for a rare and unique pair of cufflinks.
